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Tripoli, or Tarabalus Al-Gharb (Tripoli of the
West in Arabic), is the major city and de facto capital of Libya.
The climate of Tripoli is Mediterranean with hot dry summers, cool
winters and some modest rainfall. Weather can be variable, influenced
by the Sahara Desert and the Mediterranean Sea which moderates daily
temperature ranges.
The old walled city of Tripoli, the Medina, is one of the classical
sites of the Mediterranean. The basic street plan was laid down
in the Roman period when the walls were constructed on the landward
sides against attacks from the interior of Tripolitania. The high
walls survived many invasions, each conqueror restoring the damage
done. In the 8th century the Muslim ruler built a wall on the sea-facing
side of the city. Three great gates gave access to the town, Bab
Zanata on the west, Bab Hawara on the south east and Bab Al-Bahr
in the north wall.
The castle, Al-Saraya Al-Hamra, occupies a site
known to be pre-Roman in the east quadrant of the old city and still
dominates the skyline of Tripoli. Any tour of the old city should
begin at the castle, entered from the land side near Suq Al-Mushir.
It houses a library and a well-organized museum and has excellent
views over the city from the walls. The Castle Museum is essentially
concerned with the archaeology and ancient history of Libya. It
covers the Phoenician, Greek and Roman periods well and has an expanding
collection of materials on the Islamic period.
The old city has several key elements worth visiting.
The old city walls are still standing and can be climbed. The Harbour
Monument stands at the gates of the old city on the edge of the
former corniche road adjacent to the castle. There are a number
of restored houses, consulates and a synagogue in the narrow streets
of the old city.
There are a number of interesting mosques including
the Karamanli Mosque, the En-Naqah Mosque and the Gurgi Mosque both
in the old town and adjacent to it. The best known of the Tripoli
mosques is the Gurgi Mosque with its elegant architecture. It was
built comparatively recently in 1833 by Yussef Gurgi. If the traveller
wishes to view just one of Tripoli's mosques, the Gurgi Mosque is
the one to choose.
Modern Tripoli spilled out from the tight confines
of the old city as early as the 18th century and possibly before
that. The main commercial streets lie in the centre. Most lead off
Green Square in front of the castle. All street names are in Arabic
but Libyans will assist in giving directions. Walking around Tripoli
centre is straight forward. For a tour of the modern city on foot
begin in Green Square and travel West along Sharah Omar Mukhtar
to see the private business district. Turn round at the Tripoli
Fair building and return to Green Square from which go due South
down Sharah Mohammed Magarief towards the post office and former
cathedral. From the post office square (Maidan Al-Jaza'er) either
turn directly right to Sharah Tahiti and thence right again into
one of the commercial thorough-fares with small Arab lock-up shops
or go on past the post office towards the People's Palace and thence
right to the harbor front and back towards the Green Square. This
itinerary shows the best if the modern city.
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Situated on the eastern edge of the Gulf of Sirte, Benghazi ranks
as the second largest city in Libya and a major commercial center.
The city today displays little of its ancient heritage, as it
was pretty much pummeled into ruin during WWII. Benghazi makes
a great base for exploring the lush Green Mountain area and the
numerous Roman ruins along the coast, and there are good bathing
beaches within a quick drive.
With a good pair of walking shoes, you can cover central Benghazi
easily on foot. The covered souqs are open daily, but they really
come alive on Friday morning, when the whole city seems to convene
for a shopping spree. The main covered market, the Souq al-Jreed
on Sharia Omar al-Mukhtar, sells all manner of clothes and household
goods, while not far off the street becomes a pedestrian precinct
or small shops and cafes.
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Deep in the interior is Fezzan, home of the finest natural gallery
of prehistoric rock are in Africa. Sabha is the largest oasis
and the major city in the Fezzan Region.
It is situated in the middle of the desert where visitors may
spend an enjoyable time in a quiet and peaceful atmosphere between
golden sand dunes, green palm trees, clear water springs and the
ancient ruins and civilization that surround it. The modern city
of Sabha may be reached via a modern highway network across the
desert or by air from Tripoli and Benghazi.
It is built on the ruins of an ancient city where past civilizations
such as that of the Garmantes thrived. Their drawings and engravings
on the rocks of the Akakus mountains and their earliest artifacts
date back to the first millennium B.C., telling the story of the
great original Libyan civilization that flourished in this part
of the country.
Further north, across the sand-sea and the huge dunes one reaches
the magnificent oasis of Gabroun which has been restored in order
to cater for travelers. The original inhabitants, the Dawada,
also known as the "Worm Eaters" have now moved to an
area closer to the highway.
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Leptis Magna, an ancient city along the Mediterranean
Sea, located near the modern-day city of Al Khums in Libya. The
city began as a trading port for the ancient people of Phoenicia
around 1000 BC and then became part of the Roman province of Africa
Proconsularis. Lepcis was the most easterly of the three cities
that gave the North African region of Tripolitania its name.
The city grew as a prosperous trading center, but
raids by desert tribes began in the 4th century AD and the city
was virtually abandoned by the 8th century. Lepcis Magna was associated
with the Roman Empire for more than 600 years beginning in the 2nd
century BC. During that time many buildings were constructed using
Roman architectural styles. These Roman structures, well preserved
under sand for centuries, have made the city an important area for
archaeological study since the 1920s. Lepcis Magna was also known
as the birthplace of Roman emperor Lucius Septimius Severus (AD
146-221).
Lepcis Magna, which was located on a natural harbor
protected by islands along the North African coast, began as a Phoenician
trading post. In the 6th century BC Carthage became the dominant
Phoenician colony and gradually took control of other Phoenician
areas in North Africa, including Lepcis Magna. In 202 BC the Romans
defeated Carthage in the Second Punic War. Emperor Trajan made Lepcis
a colonia, a Roman colony with full Roman citizenship rights for
the city’s population, in AD 109. The first Roman senator
from Lepcis Magna began to serve in the early 2nd century.
During the Roman period, Lepcis was the Mediterranean outlet of
a trade route through the Sahara into the interior of Africa. Its
economy was based on agriculture, and some of its products, particularly
olives, became profitable trade items. Olive cultivation added so
much to the town’s prosperity that in 46 BC the Roman ruler
Julius Caesar imposed an annual tax of three million pounds of oil
on Lepcis. Inscriptions and literary sources attest to the wealth
of the Lepcis Magna elite, who supported the continuing growth of
the city.
Late in the 1st century BC, a quarry was opened
at Ras el-Hammam south of Lepcis Magna that yielded an exceptionally
fine, hard limestone used to build most of the town’s later
structures. In AD 120 the people of Lepcis Magna built an aqueduct
to carry water. In later years they also completed luxurious baths
on the model of the imperial baths in Rome, a large circus or racetrack,
and other public buildings.A major period of construction occurred
during the reign of Emperor Lucius Septimius Severus, which began
in 193. Septimius Severus was born in Lepcis Magna. He honored his
place of birth by funding an ambitious building program that included
a magnificent new forum and a richly decorated four-way arch marking
the intersection of the city’s two main streets. He also built
a new enclosed harbor linked to the city center by a broad street
nearly 366 m (1201 ft) in length and lined with colonnades. Severus
visited Lepcis Magna in 203 and marked the occasion by announcing
significant tax exemptions.
By the 4th century, the desert tribes of North
Africa had grown strong, and they raided the territory around Lepcis
Magna. Initially, the city’s fortified walls saved it from
being plundered. Roman authority in North Africa had grown so weak,
however, that the Roman governor in the region would not help unless
the city provided camels and provisions for his army.In 365 an earthquake
damaged Lepcis Magna severely, but the greatest blow to the city’s
prosperity came with the invasion of a Germanic tribe called the
Vandals about 455. By 534 Lepcis Magna had become part of the Byzantine
Empire. During this period of upheaval, much of Lepcis Magna was
abandoned. By the time Arabs controlled the region in 642, the city
was almost empty.Because most of the Lepcis Magna’s fortified
walls had been destroyed, the city was covered by sand over time.
In the dry desert climate, the ruins of Lepcis Magna were preserved
by these sand dunes. Between 1920 and World War II (1939-1945),
when Libya was an Italian colony, Italian authorities began to excavate
the city. After the war, the British continued work at the site
and since that time have discovered many well-preserved Roman remains.
Archaeological excavations in Lepcis Magna have
unearthed several layers of ruins that show various periods of occupation
at the site. Underneath the remains of a large theater built in
the 1st century AD is a cemetery probably dating from the 4th or
3rd century BC. Particularly well-preserved are 2nd- and early 3rd-century
Roman buildings that include the elaborate Hadrianic Baths as well
the remains of the forum and basilica erected during the era of
Emperor Septimius Severus. The 3rd-century Hunting Baths, named
for a fresco, are also in remarkable condition. More recent discoveries
have included a Roman house with an extensive underground water
system that provides new glimpses into the everyday life of residents
of Lepcis Magna.
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It is hard to believe, that these regions of today few people
and sparse agriculture, once housed the Garamantian Empire, which
was so strong that Roman never managed to fight it down. There
are two ruin areas, Garama and Zinchecra, about 2 km north of
the little village of Germa.
While most of the ruins here now, are far younger
than those belonging to the Garamantian Empire, you will find a
fort, and a number of normal houses at Garama. Up the hill from
Garama, the even older Zinchecra is found. This was used as a burial
site, after the inhabitants of Garama moved down to the river, probably
an expression of increased safety and strength. The city did originally
get its water from a natural spring here, and credible stories tell
of a large lake as well. The spring still exist, but of the lake,
only salt beds are left behind.
In Germa, ancient houses, temples and baths carry the distinguished
designs of the different civilizations that existed in this land:
ancient Egyptian, Carthaginian, Greek and Roman. Other ruins in
Germa suggest civilizations in the area dating back to 5000 B.C.,
suchj as that of Acacus , as evidenced by the colored drawings in
the nearby mountains.
The Garamantes, with the help of their neighboring
tribes, resisted the Roman influence. Their armies reached the fringes
of Leptis Magna, hundreds of kilometers to the North. Peaceful relations
were not realized until the end of the 2nd century A.D., at the
time of Libyan born Emperor Septimius Severus (193 - 211 A.D.).
The museum in Tripoli (Al Matthaf Al Jamahiri)
exhibits the various masterpieces and collections discovered in
the area, where the earliest finds date back to the first millennium
B.C.
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Ghadames is 640 km southwest of Tripoli. There are at least two
buses a day from Tripoli, passing via Nalut. Ghadames is very much
the legendary oasis town, even though the population has moved out
of the labyrinthine old town into new modern housing areas. Exploring
the twon and oasis is a pleasant day, and with four wheel drive
could do a day trip out to the dunes.
Located close the point where the international frontiers of Libya,
Algeria and Tunisia join, modern Ghadames has an estimated population
of around 10000. The residential area is divided into the old and
new towns. The old town is situated within the oasis whereas the
new town has been built on the dry slopes above the oasis. The old
town has been uninhabited since 1986. The old town has not been
simply abandoned and still plays an important role in the life of
the inhabitants. In hottest days of the summer, the inhabitants
of the new city return to their original quarters in search of shade
and cool.
Tourism is gaining importance and Ghadames now has a three day
tourist festival held annually in October to coincide with the date
harvest. There are displays of local traditions and horsemanship.
Ghadames stands still as one of the most valuable spots in Libya
for the traveller. Here you'll find a tranquil old city, with covered
streets that are both dark and with far lower temperatures than
what you find outdoors. And of course, the colour chosen, is white.
Ghadames represents popular engineering, and is the result of a
complex knowledge on how to deal with extreme temperatures. The
positioning of the houses are far from casual. Every angle, every
wall, every opening in the roofs over the alleyways, are parts of
the same organism.
Even if Ghadames still stands, the people have moved out of it,
into the modern settlement nearby. They still take refuge in the
old city when summer becomes unbearable. But with the locals out,
and their dwindling knowledge on structuring of houses with natural
air conditioning, an important science could be lost.
In earlier days, the life line of Ghadames was trade through the
Sahara, including slavery. Today the 10,000 people here make a living
out of agriculture. Tourism could and should revive, and become
even greater than it was in the colonial period.
From a difficult natural environment, the old Ghadames
created perfect living conditions for isolated settlement in a harsh
natural environment. The houses, built of pise bricks, lime, palm
tree trunks and fronds, the only available building materials are
elegant and practical. Built on two stories they have a central
room of the first floor acting as a kind of courtyard with all the
rooms leading off it. The rooms are lit by an ingenious hole in
the high ceiling letting in sunlight that reflects off the white
walls and provides sufficient illumination. The upper floors are
supported by palm tree trunks covered with fronds and mud.
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Ghat is almost as far away as you can get, and you should try to
get here. The old city is found on a hillside, but as many other
places in Libyan Sahara, people don't live there anymore. Ghat was
earlier a part of the trans-Saharan route going through Ghadames
and Tripoli, but then again that is history now.
Ghat became part of French territory after the Tuareg making up
the population in this area, made several attacks into Algeria around
the turn of this century. The result is that some people here still
understand French.
When visiting the old city, it is the mosque you should look out
for first. It's everything but splendid, but do represent an in-between
architecture, with part of the North African, and the soft mosque-style
to be found in the southern fringes of Sahara. Ghat is also a place
to stay when you visit the beautiful Acacus mountains, not among
the highest in Sahara, but highly competitive, seen from a visitor's
point of view, with other ranges in Algeria and Morocco for example.
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In Roman times the Tripolitania province had three
cities, called Tripolis, Leptis Magna, Oea (now the modern Tripolis)
and Sabratha. Sabratha was to a large extent the one with least
wealth, yet there are structures here that gives a lot of sense
to the idea of visiting it. Sabratha was constructed in the 1st
and 2nd centuries AD, but it did survive longer than its big brother,
Leptis Magna. As is the case with many ancient cities in North Africa,
it was the arrival of the Arabs, that resulted in the final decline.
The theatre is the main attraction, and it appears in excellent
condition today. It is even used now as an arena for theatre and
concerts. Sabratha has several public baths, temples, fountains,
mosaics. The museum is a must, and has an extensive exhibition of
everything from statues to small coins.
The town of Sabratha has grown up in between the
ruins, adding a special charm to the place. Passing through Sabratha,
form the town, you end up at the long beaches, making Sabratha an
excellent place to stay for a couple of days.
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Sabrata prospered in the third century AD as a
trading place for the Ivory coming from central Africa, through
Ghadames and Fezzan. The Vandals who invaded North Africa from Europe
abandoned it after its destruction. In 533 AD the Byzantines occupied
the city and rebuilt most of it noticeably, the church of Justinian
with its fine decorated mosaic floors. Amongst the walls and foundations
of public buildings discovered in the city, are the market, tribunal
and some temples. Among the most prominent features of the city
during Roman times are the public arenas, the Temples of Liber Pater,
Sirapis, Isis, and Hercules, the forum, the theatre, the tribunal
arena, and the public paths. Ruins of the earliest Phoenician settlements
have been found beneath the Roman town in the area between the forum
and the Sea.
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The main monument is the Amphitheatre, used in
modern times as a theatre and concert hall. There is a variety of
public baths, temples and fountains, with many first class mosaics
both on site and in the adjacent Museum, Some Byzantine remains
are on show to exemplify the revival after the Vandal invasions.
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Al Bayda might not be much intended on tourism, but it happens
to be the best base for those exploring the great ruins of Cyrene,
Apollonia, and Slonta. And the town is nice enough. It has a number
of colonial-style buildings, and an influential Islamic university.
The religious importance of Al Bayda runs back to it being the centre
of the Sanussiyy movement, which has had central formative importance
for modern Libya.
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Shahat is approximately 220 k.m. east from Benghazi . It was
the capital of pentapolis , and the 2nd important city in the
ancient world after of course Athens . It’s an archeological
city that has lots of Greek remains.
The city of Cyrene (Shahat) is situated on the remains of the
ancient city of "Kurena", which is just an Arabic name
of Cyrene. Its height is 621 meters above sea-level. The site
is rich in archaeological monuments .
The story Cyrene as a colonial of Greek immigrants from the island
of Thera (modern Santorin) had been mentioned as a mixture of
legends, heard traditional stories and historical facts .This
event date is nearly, 631 B. C. It seems that toward the middle
of the seventh century B.C. an event caused a crisis due to over
population which arose in the small Aegean island plus a seven-year
period of drought giving rise to distress that forced emigration.
The immigrants came to Libya through the Gulf of Bomba (In VT
has been mentioned as Bamba).
Pindar, the ancient Greek poet, described it in one of his odes
as ''the city built on a gold crown".
Cyrenaicans , as well as Athena’s people love science ,and
philosophy. Famous philosophers of Cyrene were Callimachus, Carneader
and Aristippus. The Kingdom of Cyrene reached its grandeur about
400 B.C.
During its settlement, the city waged war on two
fronts, one war was launched against the Libyans, the owners of
the country, while the other war was pointed against Carthage. However,
the two wars ended in reconciliation and peace among the belligerents.
In the fourth century. Cyrene acknowledged the reign of the Ptolemais,
the successors of Alexander the Great, and later on the reign of
the Roman Empire.
The Jewish Rebellion in Cyrene
During the reign of Emperor Tarjan in (115-116) A.D. an extensive
Jewish rebellion broke out in Cyrene. It was cruelly quelled and
most of the public buildings were destroyed, resulting the decline
of life in the entire city. Cvrenaica was then in a sorry state
after the quelling of this uprising. Both cities were half-destroyed
by the revolt.
The Emperor Justinian (A.D. 527-565 ) was active
in city restoration throughout his shaky reign . He then ordered
the repair of the aqueduct of Ptolemais, a measure which brought
some small gasp of life back to that city; and at Berenice new public
baths were constructed. Special care was equally devoted to the
fortifications of the towns, and fortresses in the outlying areas,
including Antipyrgos (Tobruk) and Boreurm (near Minaa Brega in the
Syrtic region).
The city is then invaded as long as the whole Cyrenaican
area , by the Arab Muslim army led by Amr bin al-as who expulsed
the Roman existence from the area , and from the whole north Africa.
That was in the time of Heraculs
Shahat today
Shahat today is a small town on the green mountain , very close
to the remains of the great city Cyrene.
It's officially belongs to Albaydha .
It's famous of agriculture . Fruits , espicially apples, grapes
, and so on are grown there.
Visitors of Shahat usually spend there nights in Albaydha which
is the largest city in Aljabal Alakhder , 18 km from Shahat. |
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The city of Sousa was known as
Apollonia during the Greco-Roman era. It is located on the Mediterranean
coast, 20 KM North of Shahat (Cyrene), and is connected to the latter
by a road excavated in the rocky ground of the area, and improved
during Roman times. Apollonia served as a port for the city of Cyrene,
when the once well-known silphium plant was exported. By the end
of the 6th century A.D., its importance exceeded that of Cyrene
and Ptolemais..
Visitors to this area will certainly enjoy the fine weather and
the Mediterranean beach, as well as the Greek, Roman and Byzantine
ruins. The Greek theatre, the Roman baths and the Byzantine Palace
(which served as a government building in the 6th century A.D.)
are few examples.
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The old Greek port of Apollonia,
has both the ruins and the village of Susa, as attractions. While
modernisation of Libya, has reduced the number of traditional settlement,
Susa still holds a lot of the past. Much of Apollonia has disappeared,
due to landslides.
Apollonia served as the port of Cyrene, and the landscape between
the two sites would alone defend the detour out here. Apollonia
is a Greek settlement that is very much formed according to the
topography, with a beach cut by rugged rocks, inland from it there
are hills, all giving Apollonia a very nice setting. Apollonia has
several churches, a small theatre carved into the rocks, public
baths. Best preserved of Apollonia, are the walls.
The museum of Apollonia is small and friendly, but there will be
more exhibited here when excavations of Apollonia are more completed.
Still the acropolis remains unexcavated. There are also underwater
ruins, that can only be explored by getting a trip with a local
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Cyrene. The most important Greek city in North Africa, Cyrene
located east of Al-Bayda 22 km was founded in the 7th-century
B.C. and it would be difficult to find a better site of Greek
ruins than Cyrene. In 96 BC the Romans took possession of Cyrenaica,
and it became a province of Rome eighteen years later.
The city was part of the 1st-century five-city
state of Pentapolis and was second in size only to Athens. It enjoyed
a period of peace until a Jewish revolt in 115 AD caused widespread
destruction. Following reconstruction of the city, principally under
the Emperor Hadrian, Cyrene again entered a period of prosperity.
In 365 A.D., during the Byzantine period, an earthquake destroyed
much of the city. A grand rebuilding program took place, although
former places of pagan worship were desecrated, including the great
Temple of Zeus.
Built on a series of levels, the spectacular ruins
of Cyrene are only partially excavated and, as you walk, you may
actually discover a mosaic or statue appearing from beneath the
sand. The Temple of Apollo is of principal interest ?it was built
as early as 7th-century B.C., and rebuilt three centuries later.
Nearby is the Fountain of Apollo, whose water was used for curing
and treatments. The Great Baths are in exceptional condition, and
inside the Grand Hall, the pipes leading water from the Fountain
of Apollo, are still visible. The theatre is Roman, but its foundations
and style are Greek. The setting is stunning; hills fall away behind
the stage and present a dramatic view that stretches out to the
sea.
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Yefren has everything going for it the day Libya
loosens up for more tourism. Situated in an area of the Jibal Nafusa
with scenic forests, the old yefren is perched on a crag. Resembling
some other Berber villages in neighbour Tunisia, yefren holds enough
structures to invite for an exploration lasting several hours. This
area is one of strong impressions and colours, with fresh red soil,
and thriving agriculture.
To some extent even the modern village of yefren
is worth a visit, as the people have been adorning their house doors
and walls.
There are many places to explore nearby yefren,
a couple of old mosques, the village of Al Ghala (4 km to the north),
and the modest but interesting Roman ruins of Safit (18 km north).
Tasmirayt is very attractive with its setting in between the mountains.
The staff at the hostel will be helpful with getting you to these
places, and more if you like, and the costs will be very low.
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With Nalut the Jibal Nafusa really comes to an end, but Nalut
is one of the places in the mountains that is most rewarding to
visit. The entire town is situated on an escarpment with a great
view in eastern direction. The old town has a huge kasr, more
than 300 years old, which was used mainly for storing and protecting
grain and oil. The kasr is made up of 400 chambers or ghurfas.
The mosque, Alala, is even older.
Nalut is now being turned into a centre for desert
travelling, where still the majority of travellers are Libyans. |
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